2011年11月2日 星期三

Explode Your Income Through Affiliate Network Marketing

I have a different definition of affiliate marketing scams then most do. I look at the 95% of the affiliate marketing companies as being totally deceptive which is leading to a 96% failure rate online.

With that said both affiliate and network marketing are awesome ways to generate multiple streams of income if your business is set up correctly.

Many companies will promote their tools as the best way to build your business. They offer to you sales pages, capture pages, autoresponders and so much more, sounds great right.

The fact is that 95% of those companies are all building their list, their database and their business not yours, that to me defines affiliate marketing scams, not to mention very deceptive. Sure they give you the bread crumbs in the form of a commission check but wealth online is built through your list and your blog.

Remember, once your business is dressed for success you can add any affiliate or network marketing company to your arsenal, but you won't be under their control.

Yes you need a blog. If you don't have one there are many videos out there that show you how to build one within two hours. The main key to building true wealth online is to build your list by having thousands of people per day coming to your blog, it's not that difficult.

The way you have your marketing funnel set up will dictate your success or failure. There are a few affiliate companies out there that place all the tools into your hands including a marketing funnel where you can build your list.

Niche domination will not only generate thousands of people to your blog for free, but you can see tremendous results in less than 30 days. Google is the largest search engine in the world because of the type of algorithms they have.

Simply put they give the searcher the content they are looking for usually on the first try. If Google can find a blog that offers more content that is relevant to the search, they will rank that blog on page one regardless of the age or page rank of that blog.

With niche domination what you are doing is creating at least three or four blog post with different keywords within the same niche. You now create all three post and interlink them with something called an anchor tag.

Let's say you are creating a blog post with the keyword article marketing tips, and you have two other blog post you are going to create with the keywords article marketing strategies and article marketing income. Within each of your post you will place the other two keywords within a sentence that links to those blog post.

Google now comes in and follows your links and instead of getting credit for just the content on that post you will now triple your word count, relevancy and keywords.

Not only will you get ranked on page one with at least two of those keywords, but Google will give you hundreds of other keywords within that niche where they will rank you highly because of the relevancy.

The results are total niche domination, tons of traffic, leads and income if you have your marketing funnel set up correctly.

If your true desire is to earn replacement type income you need to have the following within your business.

A Daily blueprint of very specific strategies that you should implement

A professional marketing funnel

A free gift to offer your prospects

Professional autoresponders

Capture pages

A very specific syndication strategy for your blog post that will get your blog in front of hundreds and thousands of people and websites


關鍵字優化

Prime Lens Vs Zoom Lens – Which Is Best?

So, youre wanting to get a new lens, but youre not quite sure whether to buy a prime lens or a zoom lens. Both types of lenses have their advantages and disadvantages, and you want to make sure you make the right decision and get the lens which best fits your photographic needs.

In case you didn't already know, the main difference between a zoom lens and prime lens is that a zoom lens enables you to adjust your focal length within a certain range (for example 18-50mm), whereas a prime lens has a fixed focal length.

So you might be wondering what the point is of using a prime lens. Surely if you have the choice between a lens with flexibility and one with no flexibility, then surely the flexible one is the best one, isnt it? Well, its not really as straightforward as that, because prime lenses do have some advantages. To begin with, they are lighter than zoom lenses because they have less moving parts. Mechanically speaking, they are simpler.

In addition to this, prime lenses usually have wider apertures. The aperture of a lens determines how much light the lens lets in at any one time. Aperture ratings are in ratios, for example 1:3.5 or 1:2.8, but usually when buying a lens you will see it shown without the 1 in front of it, for example 3.5. Lenses with lower aperture numbers are more expensive, as a lower number means a wider aperture. Having a wide aperture produces a shallow depth of field, meaning that only a small distance range is in focus. A narrow depth of field (a wide aperture) would be great for close-ups of flowers where you want the background blurred, whereas a large depth-of-field (a small aperture) would be ideal for landscape photos.

Okay, so how about the zoom lens?

Well, a zoom lens will give you a bigger range of distances to compose your image. This means that you don't need to move closer or further away from your subject to get the picture you're after. I t can also be great for taking shots of wildlife, because you can zoom in without having to change your position, so you will be less likely to scare the animal away.
The best way to decide which type of lens is right for you is to ask yourself what type of photography you are going to be doing. If you are going to be photographing a scene which remains still, such as a landscape scene, then a prime lens could be a good choice. If on the other hand you want to photograph things that are moving, such as animals, people, or sports photography, then a zoom lens is a must.

So, youre wanting to get a new lens, but youre not quite sure whether to buy a prime lens or a zoom lens. Both types of lenses have their advantages and disadvantages, and you want to make sure you make the right decision and get the lens which best fits your photographic needs.

In case you didn't already know, the main difference between a zoom lens and prime lens is that a zoom lens enables you to adjust your focal length within a certain range (for example 18-50mm), whereas a prime lens has a fixed focal length.

So you might be won dering what the point is of using a prime lens. Surely if you have the choice between a lens with flexibility and one with no flexibility, then surely the flexible one is the best one, isnt it? Well, its not really as straightforward as that, because prime lenses do have some advantages. To begin with, they are lighter than zoom lenses because they have less moving parts. Mechanically speaking, they are simpler.

In addition to this, prime lenses usually have wider apertures. The aperture of a lens determines how much light the lens lets in at any one time. Aperture ratings are in ratios, for example 1:3.5 or 1:2.8, but usually when buying a lens you will see it shown without the 1 in front of it, for example 3.5. Lenses with lower aperture numbers are more expensive, as a lower number means a wider aperture. Having a wide aperture produces a shallow depth of field, meaning that only a small distance range is in focus. A narrow depth of field (a wide aperture) wo uld be great for close-ups of flowers where you want the background blurred, whereas a large depth-of-field (a small aperture) would be ideal for landscape photos.

Okay, so how about the zoom lens?

Well, a zoom lens will give you a bigger range of distances to compose your image. This means that you don't need to move closer or further away from your subject to get the picture you're after. It can also be great for taking shots of wildlife, because you can zoom in without having to change your position, so you will be less likely to scare the animal away.

The best way to decide which type of lens is right for you is to ask yourself what type of photography you are going to be doing. If you are going to be photographing a scene which remains still, such as a landscape scene, then a prime lens could be a good choice. If on the other hand you want to photograph things that are moving, such as animals, people, or sports photography, then a zoom lens is a must.

Its not always easy trying to make this kind of decision, but whatever you decide, a Canon EF 85mm or a Nikon 17-55mm 2.8 Lens are good examples of the type of lenses that will always be useful to have as part of your photography kit.


關鍵字優化

2011年11月1日 星期二

Digital Camera Repair Problem #2 - Broken Lens

Digital camera lens repair is as common as LCD repair, but it's #2 on my list because it's harder to repair and there are so many different types of lens problems whereas a broken LCD is a broken LCD no matter how you look at it.

Here are some basic tips to avoid breaking your lens:

- Do not leave the batteries in your camera in the camera bag. The power button can be pressed accidentally causing the lens to extend and get jammed because it cannot open properly inside the bag.
- Try not to drop the camera with the lens extended.
- Don't ever pull or twist on a lens that is not working 100% properly, you will just break it.

I would have to write a book to fully explain lens problems fully (hmm.. maybe a good idea!) so I will try and keep it simple and informative.

The lens is made up of many different parts... Let's start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the lens elements.

The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and usually has a special coating on it that you DO NOT want to clean off with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something similar. It's not the end of the world, and don't worry about it if it's missing. Just keep the lens clean (why are there fingerprints on your lens anyway??) and scratch free.

The inner-most lens element is responsible for the fine focus and resides directly in front of the CCD. When you press the shutter button half way down to focus, this part moves forwards and backwards till it's in the correct position and your image is in focus. You won't be messing with this part of the lens... unless you feel like removing the lens from the camera and then tearing down the lens to get at it's 'guts'. It's kinda fun the first time, but uh... I wish you luck getting it back together properly. The tearing apart stuff is fun, the putting it back together is a drag!
The lens has two small motors with their own gears that connect to the two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get ONE GRAIN of sand in these gears, they will jam and the lens will "error out" as we like to say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it's not easy. Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 different gears that must be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already jammed, why not see how it works, right?

Then there is the CCD, "charge-coupled device" which translates the light that enters the lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.

There was a very large CCD recall by Sony over the past few years that covers many manufacturers and not just Sony, as Sony provided the CCDs to many others for their cameras. The defective CCD's cause the ca mera to take solid black photos, or purple/pink "dripping paint" photos, or they have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If your camera does this, call the manufacturer and tell them you want a repair under the CCD recall no matter how old your camera is! IF it's on the list, you might get your camera repaired for free.

Got spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and out? Most likely there is a spec of dust on your CCD. You will need to remove the lens and then remove the CCD from the back of the lens and clean it off. Don't lose the gasket that goes around the CCD, don't get any other dirt inside the lens and don't leave any fingerprints! Tall order I know, sorry, I'm demanding. =)

Let's see... what else? Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle becuase the camera was dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section o f the lens MUST be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for this section to apply, and you may follow this advice AT YOUR OWN RISK. The following repair trick works, but I am not repsonsible for your actions or anything you do to your camera.

Ok, it's stuck at an angle. Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the "Canon Zoom Lens..." chrome ring section flat on the table. The rounded edge of the lens must be what makes contact here. Now... here is the tricky part... press the angled part of the lens back into alignment by pushing down on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the LENS below the angled part to support it and press firmly but still gently (how do I do that? I don't know.. you just do it) and the lens will either POP!! back into place and work perfectly or it won't budge and no h arm will be done, -OR- one of the "guide pins" that run inside a small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just destroyed the lens.

I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera repair is fun... right?

Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, and I hope this helps you to get your camera repaired more quickly and cheaply!


關鍵字優化

Which Canon EOS Lens Is Best For A Beginner - 3 Hints For Choosing A Good All Purpose Lens

What do you believe is your beginning consideration as a new digital SLR owner? It should be which lens you want as an all-purpose lens. Believe me, there are plenty of folks who have agonized over this decision.

There are many really superior lenses to consider as walk around lenses. It's kind of like buying a compact point and shoot camera, though. What zoom range are you looking for?

For the purpose of this article, it shall be assumed that you are searching for a zoom lens rather than one with a fixed focal length. Most, though not all, new owners opt for the Canon "kit lens" as their first lens. While choosing a kit lens may make sense to you now, you will likely not be happy with the lens down the road. You either think you will just wait and purchase a better lens later, or you don't even think about a different lens.

That is not my view. You should get the very best glass(lens) that money can buy rather than spending money on an inf erior kit lens. After all, you will want to upgrade fairly soon, anyway, so why not get more bang for your buck right up front.

There are several things to consider about the lens you are planning to buy.

First consideration is focal length. In general, a focal length of about 18-24mm on the short end and 55-75mm on the long end will give you a very useful range. Keep in mind that these numbers are not critical. There are also some excellent quality lenses that have about 105mm at the long end.

Canon, Sigma, and Tamron have recently released some pretty good lenses in the super-zoom category. These have focal lengths of 18mm at the short end and 200-270mm on the long end. They have gotten favorable reviews, however just keep in mind that the image quality will not be as good as those lenses with less zoom capability.

Second consideration is aperture. The best lenses will have a constant aperture of f/2.8 across all focal lengths. Y ou can almost always save money by getting a lens with a variable aperture, such as f/3.5-5.6, but they will not give you the same performance in all situations, especially when lighting is a challenge.

The final thing to scrutinize when buying your first lens is price. For some, this may be the first thing to consider, but with DSLR photography, it really needs to follow the other two factors. Rather than getting the cheapest lens on the market just to have one, it would be far better in the long run to save enough money to start with a good lens. Don't make the same mistake that so many who have gone before you. If good image quality is something you take seriously, you will not be satisfied with a poorly constructed lens. It is very frustrating to try to take great pictures with poor quality lenses.
Now, you can save money by using Canon EOS lenses from third party manufacturers. Some third party lenses are top-notch and less costly than a Canon lens that is identical in capabilities.

A word of warning. Camera forums can be very informative, and they are full of well-meaning photographers, but they can also be very confusing. This is because the folks in those forums are very passionate about their opinions. They can mislead you by bashing certain cameras and products. While this is not always the case, if it happens to you, it could cloud your thinking and mess up your research.

User opinions on the Canon USE camera manufacturer site are much more helpful. Then there are other sites that will guide you as well. These are FredMiranda.com and online stores like Amazon.What do you believe is your beginning consideration as a new digital SLR owner? It should be which lens you want as a all-purpose lens. Believe me, there are plenty of folks who h ave agonized over this decision.

There are many really superior lenses to consider as walk around lenses. It's kind of like buying a compact point and shoot camera, though. What zoom range are you looking for?

For the purpose of this article, it shall be assumed that you are searching for a zoom lens rather than one with a fixed focal length. Most, though not all, new owners opt for the Canon "kit lens" as their first lens. While choosing a kit lens may make sense to you now, you will likely not be happy with the lens down the road. You either think you will just wait and purchase a better lens later, or you don't even think about a different lens.

That is not my view. You should get the very best glass(lens) that money can buy rather than spending money on an inferior kit lens. After all, you will want to upgrade fairly soon, anyway, so why not get more bang for your buck right up front.

There are several things to consider about the lens you are planning to buy.

First consideration is focal length. In general, a focal length of about 18-24mm on the short end and 55-75mm on the long end will give you a very useful range. Keep in mind that these numbers are not critical. There are also some excellent quality lenses that have about 105mm at the long end.

Canon, Sigma, and Tamron have recently released some pretty good lenses in the super-zoom category. These have focal lengths of 18mm at the short end and 200-270mm on the long end. They have gotten favorable reviews, however just keep in mind that the image quality will not be as good as those lenses with less zoom capability.

Second consideration is aperture. The best lenses will have a constant aperture of f/2.8 across all focal lengths. You can almost always save money by getting a lens with a variable aperture, such as f/3.5-5.6, but they will not give you the same performance in all situations, especially when ligh ting is a challenge.

The final thing to scrutinize when buying your first lens is price. For some, this may be the first thing to consider, but with DSLR photography, it really needs to follow the other two factors. Rather than getting the cheapest lens on the market just to have one, it would be far better in the long run to save enough money to start with a good lens. Don't make the same mistake that so many who have gone before you. If good image quality is something you take seriously, you will not be satisfied with a poorly constructed lens. It is very frustrating to try to take great pictures with poor quality lenses.

Now, you can save money by using Canon EOS lenses from third party manufacturers. Some third party lenses are top-notch and less costly than a Canon lens that is identical in capabilities.

A word of warning. Camera forums can be very informative, and they are full of well-meaning photographers, but they can also be very co nfusing. This is because the folks in those forums are very passionate about their opinions. They can mislead you by bashing certain cameras and products. While this is not always the case, if it happens to you, it could cloud your thinking and mess up your research.

User opinions on the Canon USA camera manufacturer site are much more helpful. Then there are other sites that will guide you as well. These are FredMiranda.com and online stores like Amazon.


關鍵字優化

Photography knowledge - Wide-angle lens tips

In today's news photography coverage, reporters are growing increasingly prefer to use a wide angle lens. Surrounded as they vie with each other when interviewed, and sometimes only with wide-angle lens. Not close to your subject in the press were often holding the camera, using 20mm or 24mm camera lens from the top of the head, cut through the enlarged photos can be useful. Photographed using wide-angle lens edge, is a do not disturb the object being photographed a good way, because at least for now, many people still believe that only when the cameras will be eaten in the photo.

Some people think that 24mm wide-angle lens is the best lens news is another reason why it is a great depth of field, you can also record characters and atmosphere. But must remember that even the wide-angle lens, depth of field is always limited, therefore, learn to use ultra-focus shooting method, there are more than rely on the superiority of depth of field.

It is often said, wide-angle lens effect caused by exaggerated perspective, telephoto lenses to shorten the subject of the plane. British photographer Ron Spearman that perspective effect only with the subject and the NIKON en-el1 Battery lens distance, is not related to focal length, wide-angle lens is often used only because of very obvious narrow perspective scenes, mainly from distant telephoto lens from the shooting that led to the exaggerated impression. He said: "If you are using wide-angle lens and a telephoto lens shot from a distance to ask, then the effect will be the same perspective."

For this view, the British photographer G. L. Wakefield had 55mm standard lens by comparison with the wide-angle lens to show off. He used two different lenses at the same point of view a single photo taken with the wide-angle lens view a larger picture, obviously another very different. At first glance, it seems that the perspective of two different pictures, but actually it is an illusion.

If the wide-angle shots of the negative part to the same standard zoom lens to enlarge the photo negatives taken the same size, both to clear the consistency of perspective. Knowing this, the practice in the future, we can safely use without fear of wide-angle lens will appear to change perspective.

Close photography on the issue, Wakefield said: "wide-angle lens can often be very close focus distances. For example, 24mm flat counting, in fact, the focus can be adjusted, such as the recent past to 250mm. Because of this distance is the surface of the film before the first date, far less than 200mm. In this distance, object distance and image distance ratio of about 8:1, which 55mm lens focus distance in the last object distance and image distance obtained roughly the same ratio . "Thus, Wakefield believes that" if not then ring or bellows, make the image looks larger objects, the use of wide-angle lens and there is no advantage. In addition, the use of wide-angle lens, the distance between the lens and the subject is too near the most likely to make the photographer's shadow falls on the subject or the camera above. "This is necessary to draw attention.

Spearman that the use of wide-angle lens, close to the subject when the focus with the focusing screen is very easy, in the long-range shooting is more difficult. But if we use wide-angle lens as standard lens, you will not experience problems. For close-up, by the use of ordinary focusing screen like the standard lens focusing in the distance from the shooting as easy. Shooting in the far distance, depth of field is often very large, so long as the distance by the adjustment can easily scale to obtain a clear image - to determine the error may be greater than on the side of the viewing side of focus focusing screen is much smaller. Buildings, etc. using the wide-angle shots, the camera must remain the absolute level of vertical, or near the perspective view will cause dramatic changes in the photo so that the convergence of vertical lines have a serious phenomenon. This situation on the viewfinder does not necessarily see that often, only when the negative or slide projec tor zoomed out, this was more obvious shortcomings.

In fact, the picture does not appear on the phenomenon of distortion of converging lines of the original scene, but a natural perspective effect. The reason it is seen as distorted, because people know that a building's vertical lines will converge, and hope in the wrong point of view to see photos of the vertical lines are parallel. However, the convergence of the phenomenon but to make the appropriate picture look real. Here is a good example, at the Kodak gallery hanging in a building Hummel Kodak film, looks like the top than the bottom is also wider, with a ruler to measure photos, results show that the top and bottom exactly the same width, which shows a little convergence rather than no convergence looks more real.

Wide-angle shots with a vertical object, such as the convergence of a serious phenomenon, it will damage the screen. All point to the same point a group of trees (to the top of the tree intake screen, the camera may not have high belief, it will happen), look very natural. L Bronstein proposed solution is: find a high place, so that the photographer close to the subject in the middle of the height of the shooting. Another approach is to retreat, so that photographers can not raise the camera angle in the case of income of the entire landscape screen. In order to avoid the convergence of horizontal lines, you have the camera back, which is the subject of the film's plane and the plane parallel to the vertical lines form.

In addition, you can use to control the perspective of a 'wide-angle lens, it can meet the skin chamber to enhance the professional cameras and lateral movement to play the role of the lens plate. Shooting with this lens, you can place the camera parallel with the location of the building, but also can enhance the lens on top of buildings or trees greater intake screen.

Using the above techniques and the use of controlled shooting scenes perspective, but also reduce the wide-angle lens photography of a common problem: Dell Inspiron 9300 adapter prospects parts seemed very empty. Of course, dealing with a serious wide-angle lens converging vertical lines in an easier way is to enlarge photos in a vertical line on the convergence of some correction. Wakefield asked: "If the amplifier board asked to show the image on the building from the ground have taken the vertical lines converge, and you should be inclined to enlarge Tizi, Shixiang paper closer to the lens at the bottom of some of the building. The effect can be judged visually, and the inclination to enlarge Tizi Tizi through on the thickness of the book under control. "

Some people may think that doing so will cause the upper and lower-resolution photographs of loss, if the image is based on the central part of the focus words. However, Wakefield said: "For any large magnification of the zoom, for example, 5 times or more, depth of focus will be large enough to allow for substantial tilting paper without serious loss of clarity, have not even received the lens to the minimum aperture. If the image of the fuzzy circle does not exceed 0.01 inches, a 2-inch distance from the lens and the paper is 18 inches, then, the tolerance for the paper plane with disabilities 0.7 inches. This means that the phase back and front of paper up to 1.4 inches while the level of difference can not see the loss of clarity. Of course, the image should be at a place between the top and bottom focus. If the aperture closing smaller, may allow for more large tilt. "

French photographer J. L Xiye Fu that in advertising photography, dramatic scene when the subject is poor, you can use wide-angle lens to highlight the merchandise, making it more attractive. For example, a male Chungli, with the 18mm lens can intake of farm scenery. Of course, the standard 50mm lens can use the photos to made into a mosaic, but the prospect of wide-angle lens to infinity, all make clear, to avoid the split between goods and Lenovo feeling.

Xi Yefu through the use of wide-angle perspective, distortion, rhythm of ordinary scenery show great charm, a vivid demonstration of the ups and downs for early desert. Shooting vision and mountains, you will feel that the clouds are moving in strange shapes you descend quickly. In the first item with the wide-angle lens or the height of the heel shooting scenery, can cause the feeling of immersive or close to wonderful effect. Just a little to change the viewpoint of wide-angle lens, the screen will completely change the subject.

Using wide-angle lens should be taken to avoid its weaknesses. For example, the wide-angle lens, wide angle, it is easy to intake did not want the scene. And because the scene in the viewfinder is reduced, and thus often difficult to detect when shooting. In addition, the use of this lens, should be close to their subject, otherwise, the subject will be very small, a waste of screen space.

In the wide-angle lens to be careful when adding filter. The angle is too large, filter appears at the corners of the screen will blur and darken. Sometimes even without filters, ultra wide-angle lens captured images, and colors may appear gradually from the center of the screen to the edge of the clear blue. This is because when shooting with ultra wide-angle lens, the light entering the NIKON coolpix s8000 battery lens from the edge to reach the film than the distance to reach the central part is much greater. But others believe, the appropriate use of filters, ultra-wide angle lens for shooting the works to add a unique flavor. Black and white film using filters, such as orange and red series, created to give work a strange surreal atmosphere. This effect, in the use of color film to be more apparent. However, the exposure should consider the use of multi-level approach to ensure the correct exposure.


關鍵字優化

IOL Risks — Learn the Risks Associated with Intraocular Lens Surgery

IOL-Intra-Ocular Lens Implant in India

A cataract operation involves removing the natural cloudy lens from the eye. Without a lens within it the eye is widely out of focus and remains legally blind. The best remedy for this is to insert an artificial lens into the eye. This is now a standard part of cataract surgery, though it has not always been so.

This artificial lens is called "The Intra Ocular Lens Implant". Surgeons often refer to it as the IOL (Intra Ocular Lens). If a lens implant is not used the eye must be brought into focus with either a spectacle lens or contact lens. Each of these has disadvantages. A spectacle lens will be thick, heavy and restrict the field of vision. A contact lens has to be looked after and taken on and off the eye. An intra ocular lens once inserted can be forgotten about by the patient and restores the eye to the most nearly natural state.


The Lens Implant

This section pr ovides more information about the Intra Ocular Lens Implant. It expands on the brief explanation given on the previous page.

It includes information about : -

* The history of intra ocular lens implants.
* Types of intra ocular lens implants.
* Intra ocular lens implant power.
* Innovations & possible future developments with intra ocular lens implants.


There have been two particularly important factors in this : -

* Firstly the development of gel like substances (called viscoelastics) which can be placed within the eye during surgery to create space and protect the delicate internal structures of the eye. These substances allow the lens implant to be safely manipulated into position within the eye.
* The second factor was the development of surgical techniques which preserve a platform within the eye onto or into which a lens implant can be securely positioned. The best location for an intra ocu lar lens implant is behind the pupil, i.e. as near as possible to the position of the natural lens of the eye. The move away from intra capsular cataract surgery to the extracapsular technique in the 1980's made it possible to support a lens implant behind the pupil. Phacoemulsification cataract surgery popularised in the 1990's now means that the lens implant can be placed within the pocket (the so called capsular bag) of the natural lens.



Intra ocular lens implants may be classified according to : -

* their particular design
* the material from which they are made
* whether they are rigid or foldable
* where they are positioned within the eye




Lens Implant Designs

All intra ocular lens implants have two parts. The central part is the focusing or true lens component of the device. This is shaped like a thin round disc and is usually between 5 and 7 mms in diameter. This part of the l ens is called the "optic". From the edge of this optic extend limbs, called "haptics". These support the lens in position within the eye and ideally keep the optic centred on the line of vision.

Most lens designs have two haptics extending from the optic in opposite directions. There are a few lenses on the market with more than two haptics. The lens as a whole may be made from a single piece of plastic. It is then referred to as a one piece lens. Alternatively the optic and the supporting haptics may be manufactured separately and then fused together. If the lens has two supporting haptic limbs bonded to the central optic it is referred to as a three piece lens..


Intra ocular lens Material

Intra ocular lenses are made from clinical grade plastics. These materials need to be chemically stable and inert within the eye. They must not cause any irritation or chemically induced damage to the tissues of the eye. In other words they must be s afe and reliable. They must last a lifetime.

The first plastic used to make an intra ocular lens was perspex (polymethyl methacrylate); also known as PMMA. It is a rigid material and the same substance from which traditional hard contact lenses are made. Many millions of such lenses have been implanted. One company has devised a means of bonding a substance called 'heparin' to the surface of lenses made from this material. This has the effect of making them 'non stick' and ideal for use in eyes with a history of inflammation or in patients with diabetes..


Rigid v Foldable Lens Implants

Lens implants made from PMMA (described above) are rigid. The 'optic', the main focusing part of the lens, is inflexible. It cannot be bent or folded. This part of the lens is usually between 5 and 7 mms in diameter. The incision in the eye must therefore be at least this big in order to allow the lens to be put into the eye. If the incision is made in th e form of a slit like tunnel it may be self sealing and not require a suture.

However the larger the incision the more likely it is that a suture will be required in order to leave the eye in a sealed and secure state at the end of the operation. Newer silicone and acrylic materials are pliable. Lenses can be made from them that can be folded. This means that the entire cataract procedure can be performed through a small incision of around 3mms or less. The lens implant is folded and introduced into the eye either with special forceps or an injection device. Once within the eye the lens is released and gently unfolds to its full size. It is then manoeuvred into position..



Position within the eye

An intra ocular lens may be placed in the space between the cornea and the iris, be attached to the iris or be placed behind the iris and pupil. Nowadays lens implants are usually placed behind the iris and pupil. The fluid filled space be tween the cornea and the iris is called the anterior chamber. Lens implants designed to be positioned here are therefore known as anterior chamber intra ocular lens implants (A/C IOL's).

These implants are supported in position by S-shaped haptics (supporting limbs) that rest in the periphery of the anterior chamber where the root of the iris and the dome of the cornea meet. This is called the anterior chamber angle and this type of lens implant is therefore said to be 'angle supported'. When using an anterior chamber lens implant it is usually necessary to make a small hole in the periphery of the iris. This is called a peripheral iridotomy (or PI)..


The Intra Ocular Lens Implant Power

The optical power, or focus power, of the lens implant is measured in dioptres (D). This is the same measurement as that used for spectacle and contact lenses. The higher the number the stronger or more powerful is the focus of the lens. For a posterior chamber lens implant, the usual style of implant used these days, the average lens implant power is around +22D or +23D.

For short sighted (myopic) eyes the power will tend to be less than this and for long sighted (hyperopic) eyes it will be higher. The exact lens power chosen for each operation will depend on the desired post-operative focus of the eye. Most lens implants are available in a standard power range of +10D to +30D. This will meet the requirements of most eyes. Powers outside this range are available in some designs for the occasional eyes that require them. Innovations & possible future developments with intra ocular lens implants

Recent and possible future advances in intra ocular lens implant design includes : -

* Implant edge design.
* Multifocal implants.
* Accommodating implants.
* Implants that correct the optical aberrations of the eye.
* Adjustable implants.




Impl ant Edge Design

There has been much discussion of late as to the best shape for the edge of a posterior chamber intra ocular lens implant. The current consensus is that the back edge of the optic (the main focusing part) of the lens should be square and that the front edge should be rounded. It is thought that a square back edge will help prevent the development of posterior capsule opacity. The lens implant rests on the posterior capsule.

Immediately after surgery this membrane like structure is clear. In some eyes as time goes by it becomes hazy or opaque and vision worsens. This opacification is partly due to the proliferation of cells on the surface of the capsule. If the lens implant has a square back edge which abuts into the surface of the capsule this may prevent cells from proliferating across the capsule beneath the lens. This would then help to keep the capsule clear in the line of vision. A rounded front edge is thought to reduce internal re flections and stray light within the eye. Many lens implant manufacturers have now adopted these edge features.



Multifocal Lens Implants

In youth the eye has the ability to naturally adjust its focus. As well as having clearly focused distance vision the eye is able to re-focus for near vision. This ability, called accommodation, is gradually lost with ageing. This is why most people need reading or near vision spectacles by mid 40's. This adjustment of focus is produced by a small muscle inside the eye which alters the shape of the natural lens of the eye.

As the years pass the natural lens becomes less pliable until by age 60 all focus adjustment has been lost. Similarly after a conventional cataract operation the eye has a fixed focus. Traditional lens implants have only a single focus power which cannot be adjusted by the eye. If after cataract surgery the eye is in focus for distance vision spectacles will be required for nea r vision. Theoretically one solution to this is to use a lens implant with both distance and near focus; rather like bifocal spectacles..


Accommodating Implants

As explained above in the section on multifocal implants after a conventional cataract operation the eye has no ability to adjust its own focus. The ultimate dream, or the holy grail, of cataract surgery is to produce a lens implant with an adjustable focus. If this were possible then not only would sight be restored from removal of the cataract but the eye would also be returned to its youthful freedom from reading spectacles.

Some lenses have now been designed which may be able to do this. They are though currently experimental and, at the time of writing, their long term success in clinical practice has not yet been proven. The theory is that on attempting to focus for near vision the little focusing muscle within the eye (called the ciliary muscle) causes the lens implant to move forwards slightly. If the lens sits a little further forward within the eye its power is in effect slightly increased.


Implants that correct the optical aberrations of the eye

The main focusing part of a conventional lens implant is optically very simple. It is usually biconvex, i.e. both the front and back surfaces have a raised curvature. This curvature is part of the surface of a sphere, i.e. it is like the curvature on a soccer ball. A lens of this design will correct the main focus error of the eye. However it does not correct the other optical aberrations or imperfection of the eye (e.g. spherical aberration).

These aberrations cause vision to be slightly degraded especially when the pupil is large. The natural lens of the eye is shaped in such a way that some of these aberrations are neutralised. In other words a traditional style of lens implant is not as good as a clear natural lens at achieving the best possible focus an d clarity of vision..



Adjustable Implants

An alternative way to perfect the focus of a lens implant to the individual requirements of an eye is to adjust the focus of the lens after it has been placed into the eye, i.e. to do so post-operatively. A lens material has now been produced whose shape can be adjusted using a ultra violet light. A lens of approximately the correct dimensions is implanted and the eye is allowed to recover from the operation. The focus and aberrations of the eye are then determined.

The lens is exposed to a specific wavelength of light in such a way that its shape is altered slightly to perfect the focus of the eye. This can be done more than once if necessary. When the best focus has been achieved the lens is exposed to a different light which fixes or sets the lens and keeps the desired shape.

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